The Amazing Victoria Falls Marathon 2012

On 25 August 2012, I flew up to Victoria Falls on British Airways. Leaving a cool wintery Johannesburg behind, I was on my way to the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The flight was empty and most enjoyable, sparing the last few minutes of turbulence just before arrival. I had a window seat which meant that the the journey was almost a scenic voyage all the way since one can view the Kalahari desert, the Chobe River, the Zambezi River and the mighty Victoria Falls from your seat. The pilot warned us earlier that due to the heat there would be turbulence towards the end of the flight. After a few bumps and jolts, we were descending over the treetops and Savanna vegetation which is found in the area. On arrival in Victoria Falls, you notice how things are still done manually. A truck drives the stairs to the aircraft door for passengers to disembark.  The baggage handlers climb into the aircraft hold and begin unloading the bags onto a trailer which carries the baggage to the building. All this seems so archaic but it does however work efficiently.

Waiting in the immigration hall of the small and outdated Victoria Falls airport, you wonder why it takes so long to be stamped in. There are several lines of people. The lines of nationals who have to pay USD 30 for their visas and the lines of nationals who do not need visas. With reason the, the visa free line moved faster because there were fewer people who do not need visas. The Victoria Falls - being one of the amazing natural wonders of the world - attracts visitors from all over the globe. Many countries do not have good relations with Zimbabwe so it imposes visas restrictions on those nationals who require visas of Zimbabweans.

As you exit the airport building, African dancers greet tourist arrivals in traditional song and dance. Get your camera ready to take photos but also bear in mind that these performers really would like a tip. They probably rely solely on the generosity of tourists who will part with a buck or two. I noticed some kind tourists slipping a 1 or a 5 dollar note their way. I take my hat off to the locals for trying. They do live in a very expensive place since the US dollar is the currency used in the country, and so many of the people are unemployed. I admire their perseverance. Zimbabweans are people who get ten out of ten for trying! They have suffered enough to know that nothing comes of nothing so they are aware that they have to fend for themselves.

After exiting the airport I was met by Wild Horizons who would be transferring me (and others to town). The driver was friendly and engaged with his passengers. He told us that he would be driving us 21 kilometres - into town. The airport seems close to town but it actually is not. The journey is along a tar road which is flanked by thick bush and trees. The odd wild animal stands on the side or crosses the road whilst we drive. We have to stop to allow a herd of cows to cross the road. We stopped to see warthog, baboons and monkeys that were foraging in the vegetation on the side of the road. Our driver explains the local area and points out some places en route. We pass the Sprayview Motel and he explains how this place got its name - because in the high water season they spray from the waterfall can often be felt even at that motel, which is the furthest from the waterfall. He also tells us how to greet local people in the area, using the greeting 'Sali bonani'.

The Kingdom Hotel

On arrival at the Kingdom hotel I found the meeting room where the Race Organisers were registering runners and handing out race numbers and race information. The route map was displayed on the noticeboards. There was a small gathering of runners who had arrived on the same flight as I had. I recognized their faces at the race organisers venue. There was an air of excitement and indeed some anxiety. A older Zimbabwean man asked me if I was doing the 21 or the 42. It seemed like many people were doing the 21km race. When I told him I was doing the 42, he seemed rather impressed. This made me begin to wonder whether the 42 would be tough. Anyway, there was little I would be able to do as I had signed up and was now going for it - even if I had not trained hard since Comrades Marathon in June.

Parlour style swimming at the Victoria Falls Hotel

I spent the afternoon at the Victorian styled pool of the grand Victoria Falls Hotel - basking in the sun and enjoying the balmy weather. The pool water seemed too cold to swim in though. So, no swimming for me. That evening I had dinner at one of Vic Falls' best kept secret budget eateries. The In da Belly restaurant (at the Vic Falls Rest Camp) has a wonderful thatched lapa with a friendly atmosphere and really well priced  meals. They also offer local specialities such as crocodile, game, warthog etc. All nicely presented and affordably priced.

In da Belly Cafe at the Rest Camp

I woke early on the Sunday morning to get to the start which is in the main road through the town. It felt a little cold but after a brisk, I warmed up quickly. There were some runners gathered under the starting banner - certainly not as many as I had imagined. I thought there would have been more competitors but then again there were two races. Fewer were doing the 42,2 km race than there would be for the 21,1 and 10 km races - which started later. Runners were warming up and doing some sprints and stretches in the minutes leading up to the race. The gun went off and we began to run - down Parkway Road, heading towards the border where the cargo trucks were already beginning to line up for entry into Zimbabwe. We ran over the bridge as the morning sun could just be seen rising over the treetops in the distance. As you cross the bridge on foot you can see and hear the plunging waters of the mighty Victoria Falls. There was not a full curtain of water plunging down the gorge, since it was the dry season. As I arrived on the Zambian side of the bridge the lead runners were already on their way back over the bridge to continue the race on Zimbabwean soil. Only the first part of the race takes you across the bridge and onto Zambian soil before returning to Zimbabwe to continue the course.

The start in Parkway Road

Preparing for the 42,2 km run

Running to the border and the bridge, as the sun rises

Runners heading over the bridge to Zambia

Front runners head back over the bridge to Zimbabwe

The next part of the race turns off the road, into the national park. You run alongside the Zambezi River. It is possible to see the flowing waters through the bush and trees alongside the road. On all sides there were trees - some notably sized Baobab trees too. Park wardens carrying guns walked along the road to protect runners from surprise encounters with wild animals. Before the race began we were warned of elephant and other game which had been sighted on the course that morning. You have to be careful not to wander too far into the bush if you need a toilet stop on whilst on the run. An elephant or another wild animal may chase you out of its home!!

Baobab trees along the road

Armed wardens keep animals at bay

Just after the water table in the park, you come back to a main tar road outside of the town. There is quite a long stretch on this road. The road curves and climbs a little, where you pass the Elephant Hills Hotel. Then there is a nice long down run to the A'Zambezi River lodge and the Crocodile Ranch. The helpers at the A'Zambezi water tables were cheerful and added some fun and excitement with their dancing and loud music. The course then continues into another section of the national park. You run on sand road for some of this section - doing a bit of a loop - and then you rejoin the road and pass the A'Zambezi River lodge again, retracing your steps to the turn off to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. You have to climb a little to get through the entrance to this lodge. There is a crowd of friendly supporters and some water tables to welcome hot and tired runners and walkers!

Descending towards A'Zambezi River lodge

The water tables at the A'Zambezi River Lodge

The turn off to Vic Falls Safari Lodge - a dip then a climb...

Arriving at the entrance to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge after an upward pull

Arriving at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge there are water tables to quench your thirst after the climb. The next section of the course takes you through some streets of suburban Victoria Falls. Be sure to look out for the building called Little Harrods. A miniture version of the great Harrods of Knightsbride awaits in the remotest of Africa! The same style of writing can be seen on the exterior of the store but it is NOTHING like the Harrods we all know. It is instead, a small supermarket type of shop.

Passing Harrods - in theAfrican bush

Passing Harrods, you continue the course back to the main road which leads into the centre of Victoria Falls. The course back into town and then towards the border feels quite hard since it is a repeat of the first half of the race. You do the same course which you have just completed but this time round the heat of the day is going to increase. The second lap is not very stimulating - given that you have just done it once already - but it is now that you must find your own inner focus.

As you come out of the second lap, back onto the main road which takes you back to town, you turn left and run away from town. It feels like the race should almost be over but you have only completed 35 kilometres! You then turn onto the Kazungula Road - which leads to the border with Botswana. Soon, the half marathon runners are advised to turn off to Victoria Falls Primary School (the end). It may be disheartening to know that you till have about 6 kilometres to go! The final part is most challenging and the heat increases. It is flat and seemingly never ending. Finally some distance markers appear and you learn realise that there are still a few kilometres to cover!

An unwelcome distance marker - 3 kms to go ...

Having a sense of humour loss, I renamed the race "Marathon to Botswana" as it seemed like Botswana might come before the finish line of this race. Finally, a tent appeared in the distance. Getting closer, I could read the print on the tent - Botswana Tourism Association. My feelings were correct. This was like running to Botswana! Here is the proof. The Botswana Tourist Association hosts the final waterpoint! Around the orange beacon and then run back a few kilometres...

The final waterpoint is Botswana Tourism

Turn around and head back to Victoria Falls

It was really challenging as one's motivation is fading, the temperature is rising and the route is unstimulating. Finally, you near the school and can sigh with relief when you run into the school grounds, towards the finish line. A finish time of 3 hours and 47 minutes! I was pleased, considering the heat and my lack of training. I spoke to some local runners that had passed me on the road and then watched the prize giving. The school's swimming pool appeared rather inviting after a long hard run and rising temperatures.

The finish line - at last!

It would be nice to cool off in this pool

The prize giving for the ladies marathon runners